How To Repair A John Deere Gator Clutch
So, your John Deere Gator is getting hard to shift. Information technology sticks in gear and you can't get it out of gear. Well, it'south not the transmission, it's the AM144323 CVT clutch. The fingers on the clutch handbasket warp and make the clutch spider stick in the slides, causing the clutch not to release all the way when the engine is idling. Since the gears in the transmission are cutting to concur the gears engaged when under load, the clutch not fully releasing makes it next to impossible to shift gears. The AM144323 replacement clutch's are all over the net for sale for $474 - $689. You don't need a new clutch. A couple wrenches, sockets, 320 & 1000 grit sandpaper and it'southward fixed.
Getting to it
Remove the upper Clutch and Chugalug cover. I remember there were (8) bolts with 5/sixteen" heads on them. The cover is ii pieces, and upper and lower. I was able to do this with jut the upper cover removed. I removed the left rear tire to brand information technology easier.
Remove the Commodities and washer that holds the clutch on the engine crankshaft. Don't worry, the clutch will not come off the crankshaft.
Remove the (six) iii/8" caput bolts around the clutch face. Try and remove them evenly and so as not to bend the basket. You volition have to plough the clutch/crankshaft with your hands to go at all of them.
Remove the clutch faceplate. Now remove the bound and the spacer. The spacer has a front and back to it. On mine the lip was towards the engine.
Remove the belt retaining ball bearing above the rear transmission pulley. Information technology comes off with a v/16 caput bolt on the bearing side. It has two spacers with shoulders on them to center the bearing on the commodities.
Remove the belt. You just have to walk it over the superlative of the transmission caster. The belt has a direction! Make sure the pointer on the belt points towards the front of the gator when on top.
Fixing it
Slide the clutch basket back and along on the crankshaft feeling for friction. Ideally it should slide smoothly, merely it won't. It will bind. It will bind when the basket is pulled away from the engine. That's where it runs at idle. The faster the RPM, the closer it moves to the engine, making the engine's CVT pulley bigger in diameter. There are (6) round metallic bushings that slide against (6) slides on the clutch basket. These bushings are tough. I was non able to sand them down to brand more than clearance. Instead, I sanded the slides in the clutch basket downward with 320 grit sandpaper, then polished the slides with one thousand grit sandpaper, using Alumaslick aluminum lubricant while sanding. Carefull not to get the Alumaslick on the belt surfaces. If y'all practice, wipe the belt surface downwards with carb or restriction cleaner.
Button the clutch basket all the way towards the engine. This allows you to sand down the (half-dozen) slides on the clutch handbasket where the spider rides at depression RPM.
(Polishing Lower Slide)
Sand and polish both sides of the clutch basket slides. You will have to turn the clutch to get at all 3 sets of slides.
(Polishing Upper Slide)
When the slides are sanded and polished, they should expect something similar this. No more scoring on the end of the slides towards the engine.
Click Image for MP4 Video
Put it back together
Wipe the belt surface of the pulley down with carb or brake cleaner before installing the belt. I left the Alumaslick on the slides, but no where else. The belt touches the shaft at idle, and so don't lubricate the shaft where the clutch basket slides on it. Pay attention to the belt direction. Pay attending to the management of the spacer that goes under the spring. The lip on mine was towards the engine.
Install the spacer on the shaft.
Install the spring on the shaft.
Install the clutch face plate using the (half-dozen) three/8" head bolts. Don't over tighten it. Mine weren't to tight from the mill.
Install the bolt and washer that holds the clutch on the crankshaft.
Clean the belt surfaces of the pulley with carb or restriction cleaner.
Install the belt. Put it on the clutch caster first. I put a pocket-size screwdriver in a notch on the inside of the chugalug and rotated it around the rear transmision pulley, flipping it onto the transmision pulley.
Install the retaining ball bearing.
Install the comprehend.
Relish how easy your gator shifts and how squeamish it starts and stops with no lurching!
Final Thought - John Deere really let me down on this. Our gator doesn't fifty-fifty have 42 hours on information technology and is less than two years old. This is a design flaw. Just is it? Information technology fabricated information technology through warranty. The dealers get through these clutches like mad. Look online for the part # AM144323, everyone is selling them. Even Amazon. When it can be stock-still for the price of two pieces of sandpaper. Pretty distressing.
How To Repair A John Deere Gator Clutch,
Source: http://www.howtoalmanac.com/Scott/HowTo/10-18-JohnDeereGatorAM144323ClutchrFix.htm
Posted by: searsgloopenise87.blogspot.com
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